Notes From Belize
Tales from the tropical jungle
I opened my eyes after we hit smooth air — somehow for as much as I travel, small planes are still my kryptonite. The eight-passenger propeller plane that was transporting me deep into the Belizean jungle was no exception. I turned up my music to drown out the propeller and my deranged thoughts about what would happen if it just… stopped.
I gazed out the window and somehow my mind felt slightly more at ease as we glided over glistening tributaries snaking their way through the thick jungle and the estuaries where the dark waters blended into a cloudy, brackish barrier before opening up to the cyan waters of the Caribbean Sea. The thrill of acquainting with such a diverse destination by air suddenly took over as it imbued a deep appreciation of my residence for the next few days.
Despite only visiting a corner of the 8,867-square-mile country—about 183 times the size of Boston where I live, yet still boasting a lesser population of about 405,272 (Boston’s 2020 census accounted 675,647)—I felt like I experienced so much of what the land had to offer. Perhaps because of its coalescing juxtaposition of jungle-meets-sea which I was immediately exposed to thanks to my 45 minutes onboard the puddle jumper. Disclaimer: because of Belize’s poor road infrastructure, the majority of destinations throughout the country require a connection in Belize City. There are two main operators (Tropic Air Belize and Maya Island Air) who run some 100 flights per day to 11 smaller airports within Belize which to be frank, gave me some much needed relief as these pilots are unduly qualified.
All that to say: whether you're traveling to Punta Gorda (jungle adventure) or Placencia (beaches), Ambergris Caye (scuba diving and San Pedro), you’ll experience a similar welcome to this destination — and while at first it may seem nerve wracking, I hope you’ll be able to quiet the mind to observe the beauty unfolding below you and discover what I did: the perfect preview of what Belize offers.
The Jungle
Upon arrival at Punta Gorda airport, I was scooped up in an open-air jeep to continue the day of planes, more planes, and automobiles. We first cruised along the coast where the calm waters lapped against the pavement, then were greeted by a cloud of dust as we turned off-road and into the sugarcane fields, before the tree line turned dense and the sounds of the jungle began to reverberate.
A chorus of birdsong, the occasional monkey howl and the buzzing of the jungle’s insects were palpable over the engine, then all-encompassing, as soon as we pulled into Copal Tree Lodge. I was certainly off-the-grid—my cell service was non-existent and I didn’t rush to access the WiFi—as I soaked in my surroundings and quenched my thirst with freshly harvested coconut water splashed with Copalli Rum.
The 16-suite jungle lodge is a feat of eco-tourism. There’s no greenwashing here as Copal Tree sits on 16,000 acres of rainforest preserve, none of which was disrupted to build the resort. Wooden pathways wind through the Paurotis palms, Caribbean pines and Changunga plants that deposit guests at their camouflaged rooms. Here, life runs on solar power, there’s absolutely no single-use plastic, 70 percent of what they serve in the restaurant is grown on their 3,000 acre organic farm (arugula, kale, tomatoes, eggplant, habanero peppers, zucchini, cantaloupe, ginger, turmeric and all the mint and herbs used in cocktails to name a few) while the rest is sustainably sourced from local day-fishermen. (The menu changes seasonally but a must are the omnipresent fry jacks at breakfast, kind of like a fluffier beignet).
I was visiting for the purpose of learning more about Copal Tree Lodge’s proprietary rum, Copalli; produced with regenerative farming techniques and a significant employer of locals, which discourages them from monetary offers to join deforestation programs. The rum is smooth and there wasn’t a drink I met that I didn’t enjoy—even the rum riff on a Negroni or chocolate daiquiri—but I was most impressed by their sustainability efforts throughout; from the design (using wild fall or sustainably harvested wood to craft their furniture) to the distillery.
I was also dazzled by the location. Though initially it seems like you’re close to the coast, all that is quickly forgotten as the verdant vegetation overcomes your line of vision. Yet, you can access the sea either by driving to the waterfront where beach bars and their tables rise out of the shallows enticing you with a frosty Belikin (a favored local beer). Or, you can trek down to the property’s riverfront access along the Rio Grande, hop in a powerboat and zip along 30 minutes until you’re met with open ocean; cruise just a tad longer and you’ll arrive at white sand islets and warm, aqua waters. I happened to do both and it was the latter experience that instilled the most affinity to the destination.
I was in heaven: immersed in tropical nature yet still so near to the ocean. Each day brought its own feel as I was introduced to new pockets of Punta Gorda. I hate to say Copal Tree Lodge offers “the best of both worlds” as it’s such a cliché (plus, they actually offer more) but this somehow seems the best way to describe it. A jungle oasis adjacent to the coast and not to mention access to some of the area’s main sights from Mayan ruins to the wetlands of Payne’s Creek National Park and dive sites on the Belize Barrier Reef.
Over the past few weeks, folks have asked me to describe my time in Belize — and while it’s been challenging to sum up, I hope this helps clarify whether Belize might be the best destination for you. A few more helpful and fun facts are below:
English is the official language in Belize.
There is a diverse representation of cultures throughout the country, including Mayan, Garifuna and East Indian. Copal Tree Lodge educates guests on this via designated evenings of culture and cuisine led by locals.
There are 103 protected areas in Belize, which gives way to such a nature-canvased flyover.
Belize is the least populated country in Central America.
The official animal of Belize is the tapir, but you’re more likely to view a toucan, parrot or howler monkey at Copal Tree Lodge.
Bird-watchers will delight in a visit to Payne’s Creek National Park while those hoping to catch sight of a big cat will want to check out—and maybe stay in one of their cabins for a night—the world’s only jaguar preserve at Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. **the latter is in South-Central Belize which would require additional transportation.
The rainy season runs from June through November but my guide advised that this is still a beautiful time to come as it typically only rains in the evenings or for small periods during the day. While I can’t personally vouch for this, I do always advocate for off-season travel so it might be worth looking into. I will say: it did rain once during my stay and it romanticized the whole afternoon as I sat briefly undercover before deciding to dance in it — after all, how often do you get to twirl in a rainforest rain?
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