Long Live Summer
Notes from this season's sojourns and a reminder, it's not quite over.
When I was a little girl, the dog days of summer often dwindled to the depressed days of summer as I anticipated the last few hours of freedom before zipping up my backpack with school books and a pesky longing to return to the carefree beach days.
A part of that feeling returns every Labor Day — a sort of inherent shell-shock, maybe? — because as an adult, the season is just a change in season; nothing changes in my routine but I’m still always sad to see summer go.
This year is no different but I do feel like the summer stays around longer than we give credit for, so I’m intentionally attempting to be more positive as I hold onto it — remember: the official last day of summer is September 22 — so even if the consistency of beach days, summer Fridays and long weekends are behind us, I plan to take advantage of the fleeting season while I still can.
In short: please, don’t rush to autumn around me.
Don’t get me wrong, I love autumn, but as we’re on the cusp of crispy leaf piles and (dare I say) pumpkin spiced lattes, I can’t help but feel like I’m still living out some of my early summer adventures. In fact, I really haven’t shared many with you, so here are a couple highlights from my ventures to Alto Adige, Italy and Portland, Maine.
Alto Adige
This dreamy destination was filled with wines, of which to my surprise, many of the labels I loved can be found stateside. For the remaining days of summer sunshine, I recommend the light-bodied, refreshing white wines from:
Kellerei Kurtatsch Cuvée ‘AMOS’; a delightful white blend from the estate’s best grapes (Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon) grown in the coolest vineyards between 1,960 and 2,000 feet.
Weingut Kornell ‘Eich’ 2023; a perfect presentation of how a Pinot Bianco should sip. In Alto Adige, I enjoyed this as an aperitivo wine and learned that an Aperol or Negroni aren’t the only libations that can whet a palate.
Cantina Valle Isarco Sabiona Sylvaner; actually, a fuller-bodied white, ripe with pear, and mountain herbs (sage and wild mint) that’s an ideal pairing for creamy pasta dishes.
For the chillier evenings and short days ahead, cozy up with a medium- to full-body red from:
Kellerei Bozen ‘Taber’ Lagrein Riserva 2021; 80-year-old vines produce a Lagrein that balances juicy fruit with a linear structure for a complex wine best sipped with red meat.
Kellerei Kurtatsch ‘GLEN’ Pinot Nero Riserva; a soft, velvety palate with integrated black cherry and minerality.
Franz Gojer S. Maddalena Classico DOC; juicy red cherries with a subtle cranberry tartness and undertones of rose and baking spice.
Portland
There’s always something new among Portland, Maine’s epicurean scene — so much so that it's always a toss up between visiting former favorites and venturing to a first-time spot. I did a bit of both on my latest trip, making quick work of a quick visit, and loved these five bars:
Lucky Cheetah
Old Port’s newest opening is a far cry from the raw bars, farm-to-table mainstays and seasonal beer gardens the area is known for. This underground champagne and dim sum venue brings a sense of high-low brow to Maine’s culinary capital as it fuses Victorian-era Hong Kong dim sum houses with 1950s Monte Carlo bubbly decadence. In addition to a champagne menu bolstered by the classics like Dom Perignon 2013, Laurent Perrier La Cuvee, and Jacques Lorent, the bar features cocktails crafted from Asian-made and sourced liquors as well as eastern spices and ingredients — including housemade amaro, shisho cordial and sesame-infused vodka, which they use for their ice cold martinis served with caviar-stuffed olives.
Blyth & Burrows
Consistently rated as one of Portland’s top bars, this intimate lounge may be challenging to secure a spot on any given day, yet, it’s certainly worth a try. Their menu rotates regularly, so it’s tough to recommend a favorite, though I do appreciate the “Stowaways” section of the menu where the listed cocktails “have seen plenty of action and have a little fight left in them”. Whether from old menus, limited releases, or special events, these cocktails were given an extended menu life for a reason!
Room for Improvement
“They have the best gimlet,” a bartender friend told me only a couple days before my trip. Naturally, I made time to pop in to confirm his sentiment; the gin gimlet built with house lime cordial, lime leaf and coconut definitely lived up to the hype. The only caveat is that it’s so delicious and served in its appropriate Nick and Nora glass that you may end up having multiple. Room for Improvement also presents signature “deep cuts” and the talented bartenders are more than thrilled to share more about their creations with you to help you pick your preferred poison.
Paper Tiger
Paper Tiger wasn’t on my radar until I was actually in Maine (thanks to my lovely server at Twelve). When I arrived to a cocktail menu tucked into a kid’s book, I knew this spot was going to impress. I went with the bartender’s weekly special which happened to be a negroni spiced up with midori and coconut cream. They were two flavors I couldn’t imagine in a negroni, but they actually worked, mingling together over crushed ice and topped with a Luxardo cherry. This special is a peek into the rest of the menu that’s consistently unique, bolstering culinary and savory ingredients in a majority of their “house fancy cocktails.”
Twelve
Twelve is actually a restaurant with a modern New England tasting menu (heralded by Chef Wyatt Colin) but their bar is as cozy as could be and they also have a charming, seasonal patio, complete with a wooden bar under fairy lights that sings to its locale on the waterfront. Stop by for an expertly made martini, manhattan or one of their signature cocktails that riff on the classics (you can also grab a nibble as they offer an a la carte menu).
Recent work:
Want to read more about Alto Adige? I wrote a guide for Vogue.
Why are spirits brands increasingly opening hospitality venues? Ask The Macallan.
Looking to find the best place to try wine? Here’s where to sip according to your preferences.