Let's Talk About Bars
Paris & Cartagena recs enclosed
As someone whose work overlaps with the hospitality industry, it’s no secret that I approach a restaurant reservation or a seat at the bar a bit differently than the average consumer.
Like a buzzy dining room with an elegant menu, I find the right bar is romantic and inspiring. I love how bars can define a destination — like a live-edge counter in front of a roaring fire at a ski lodge in Vail, a barefoot beach bar under a palapa in Nicaragua, or a leather-adorned, sexy city bar from Paris to Perth. It’s these types of bars where you want to ask the bartender for their specialty; it really is a cultural immersion.
Bar culture has come up a lot recently; on a most recent trip, it was the hot topic of conversation. Moments into meeting my fellow travelers, one of them shared that during the pandemic, they really missed the luxury of going out for a well-made cocktail.
Hours later, someone in our group asked what type of bar I find most comforting. Her answer was a sports bar and mine, a hotel bar — the ebb and flow of a global crowd, not knowing who you’ll meet is fascinating regardless of whether you’re at a five-star resort or a budget hotel. When I asked her why she chose a sports bar, she explained how she grew up watching football with her family; but when she moved away from home, her new friends didn’t enjoy the sport so she found solace in spending her Sundays at a sports bar surrounded by like-minded folks.
The next evening, I ended up at a highly recommended, local bar and struck up a conversation with a couple from DC. They had the same idea as my colleague and I — ask the bartender for his best cocktail (whether that was his own creation or the most popular order) rather than play it safe with a classic. They said this is their favorite way to explore a new city.
A few days later, while sipping with a hotelier at her resort and beach club, she shared a quote that stuck with me. “I only want to spend money at venues where the service is happy.” Even before she said that, I had noticed the smiles from her bartenders were contagious; they were certainly living her motto.
All this to say, bar culture’s prevalence in conversation lately has reminded me how imbibing and travel are completely intertwined; a local bar can really connect travelers not just to the destination but to each other. So, I thought it seemed like an appropriate time to share some of my favorite venues from recent trips—wine bars in Paris and cocktails in Cartagena.
Paris
L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre is an in-the-know spot tucked into a narrow corridor off Carr de l'Odéon. Come at an off-peak time and sit on a diner-esque barstool overlooking the wall of glass fridges showcasing their extensive selection or a peak time for an authentic, standing room only experience.
Bonvivant is an elegant yet unfussy venue that’s ideal for a pile of charcuterie, cheese and copious glasses of vin. If you’ve got a few friends with you, try to reserve the private room that’s adjacent to the main dining area to indulge while surrounded by bottles from some of the best French producers.
Frenchie Bar à Vins’ popularity exploded after a visit from Anthony Bourdain in 2011. Yet, its authenticity and allure remains after all these years of attracting TV-obsessed tourists; the enclave of a bar is tiny and moody, lit only by candles atop wax-dripped bottles. They present an excellent by-the-glass selection and an ever-changing food menu that’s worth staying for if you can snag a coveted seat.
Willi’s Wine Bar may be along the beaten path, but it’s certainly a gem amidst the less authentic traps along Rue des Petits Champs. The whimsical wine bar’s been an advocate for Rhône wines since 1980 and though they serve a bounty of varieties by the glass, this is a really unique spot to lean into the country’s lesser spotlighted southern region.
La compagnie des Vins Surnaturels has sister locations in NYC and London for a reason; it’s a vibey destination where you’ll likely sip on a glass from an independent producer you’ve never heard about. The staff leans into the stories of the often family-led wineries and offer a rotating blind tasting where aficionados can test their knowledge—guess it right and take the bottle home.
Cartagena
El Barón is one of those spots you can’t stop going back to; set on the corner of Plaza San Pedro de Claver, sit outside for excellent people watching and street performers while sipping on a Rosarito—mezcal, cilantro, pineapple extract, lime, spicy bitters and angostura bitters served up.
Alquímico has been classified as The Best Bar in South America for the past three years and the 9th best in 2023 by the World’s 50 Best Bars. You’ll want to come early to snag a seat at the bar and settle in to try some of their bestsellers, but if you only have time for one, don’t miss the Palabrero—mezcal, iguaraya liquora (fruit of the native cactus of La Guajira) and champurrado wine.
El Beso is unassuming with its setback facade in the historical and artsy neighborhood of Getsemani. Their spicy margaritas are finished table side with a chili pepper set on fire then stirred into your drink for a well-integrated spice and a subtle smoke.
Salon Tropical is a relative newcomer to Cartagena hailing as an institution from Bogota. It’s certainly a decor-lover’s dream with vivid artwork and an abundance of palms evoking its oasis title. Try the Ruby margarita—tequila infused with hibiscus and chipotle.
Blue Apple Beach Club where cocktails are often named after Cartagena colloquialisms and crafted with locally distilled spirits. Try the Albacano—built with gin produced from Colombian botanicals (Selva), basil and oregano from Blue Apple’s onsite herb garden.
Don’t forget—hats are still on sale with martinis, margaritas and Old Fashioned caps available!
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