Highlights from the Scottish Highlands
A long over-due trip resulted in a newfound appreciation for this wild land.
The sun’s rays dramatically pierced through the Highland scenery; jagged ridges, pyramidal peaks, mercurial lochs, and endless valleys proffered a spectacular welcome to Scotland.
As a destination I’d routinely overlooked for warmer—definitely sunnier—places, I was already impressed and simultaneously questioning why it took me so long to land here.
Perhaps it had something to do with my introduction to the country via Glasgow. When I was in college, I studied abroad in London and spent a weekend in the industrial city. I didn’t see much, unless considering the inside of pubs and bottoms of beer glasses, and although I appreciated the locals’ sunny hospitality, the dampness of Scotland soaked into my bones so much that I couldn’t shake it off.
I didn’t yearn to travel back until a couple years ago when my boyfriend and I were seeking a quick getaway from Boston—seasonal, direct flights to Edinburgh positioned Scotland on the shortlist, but it was ultimately trumped by Tuscany.
Last year, however, our interest in Scotland was revived; despite our mutual love for Italy, we felt like it was time to switch up our autumn getaway. And Scotland was certainly a change.
After weeks of following the Scotland weather service—and ensuing stress about how I could possibly fit enough warm clothes into a carry-on—I’d come to terms with the fact that this year’s vacation was going to be a cozy one (and one that required a checked bag).
You can imagine my surprise, then, when pastel blue skies peeked through the train windows and greeted us as we pulled into Edinburgh Waverley. And then again when those skies followed us from the east coast to Fort William on the west coast and remained for the seven-day trip, with only one true dreich day (Scotland’s stereotypical drizzly, damp forecast).
I blether on about the weather as it seemed an opportune metaphor for the new light I cast upon Scotland. Everything I’d heard about the country was flipped on its head and my expectations exceeded. Of course, it wasn’t just the weather:
Cuisine
Though we certainly sought out local fare, the food wasn’t all sausage, kidney and pies. We discovered a bounty of seafood from loch-harvested scallops to North Sea lobster and a fish roe dip so divine we had to refrain from ordering seconds before the rest of our meal came.
Favorite meals
Skua: an intimate wine bar in Edinburgh with rotating inventive eats but fried chicken as a menu staple.
‘Seasgair’ by Michel Roux Jr: a stay at the Inverlochy Castle Hotel is worth it for this Michelin-star chef curated menu alone. A nightly rotating menu, our meal included North Sea red gurnard, Scottish cider-infused French onion soup, native lobster with sea herbs, an outstanding local cheese cart with regionally-sourced accouterments and coconut marshmallow dominos with Balvenie whisky mousse.
The Dunvegan: renowned for its Golfers Corner Lounge Bar in the heart of St. Andrews, there’s no denying these were my favorite fish and chips of the trip; breaded east neuk haddock provided a light, crispy contrast to the often heavy fry of a traditional batter.
Favorite drinks
Ciders: I was thrilled to see a local cider on every bar menu we visited. After sampling quite a few pints, the traditional Thistly Cross Scottish Cider came out on top for its delectably crisp, clean sip.
Panda & Sons: this Edinburgh speakeasy disguised as a barbershop presents a constantly evolving cocktail menu with bar or table seating. In 2024, they’ve been working on “icy innovations and freeze-dried delights.” Placing faith in our server’s hands, we asked for his recommendations and ended up with the most delightful coconut daiquiri and an encanto sour, built with mezcal, vermouth, grapefruit, Aperol, calvados and lime.
Tea: After many afternoons passing by windows that looked into tiers of pastries and miniature sandwiches, I was feeling a bit sad that I might not have the chance to indulge in this British pastime. I grew up with this tradition, so thought I didn’t need to do such a touristy activity but became nostalgic for it half way through the trip.
My craving was satiated at the Rusacks St Andrews, where a proper afternoon tea was served while overlooking the Old Course. After so many years without this treat, I felt a bit lost on where to begin, but after a coupe of Champagne, it came right back to me as I began with the savory sandwiches (they presented a wonderful take on the classic cucumber and cream cheese, opting instead for sauteed peppers and a pork, haggis and apple sausage roll that made me actually enjoy haggis), slathered the clotted cream on my scones, and grazed the petit sweets (the chocolate, pistachio, black cherry mousse brownie was added to my “last meal” requests). I was also convinced to break out of my Earl Grey bubble to try an even more fragrant tea: Lychee and rose noir, a fruit oil and rose petal-infused Chinese black tea that had me ordering a second pot.
Castle hotels
Prior to booking the trip, I was set on staying at the most well-known castle hotels in Scotland—the ones that filled my Instagram feed and have won countless awards—but upon further research, I realized there was no shortage of castle and estate-home accommodations throughout the country; some even family-run!
From the 12th century, castles were erected as the stately homes for Scottish clan leaders—simultaneously acting as protection and a sign of wealth and power. Today, it’s estimated that some 2,000 castles and castle ruins remain throughout Scotland, many of which have been meticulously preserved and converted as hotels.
Inverlochy Castle Hotel was our first brush with the regality of castle accommodations; the twisted vines crawling up the 19th century edifice were a shade of autumn scarlet that made us feel like we’d truly arrived to a different time period. I was impressed at the balance between modern comforts for the luxury traveler and historic charm of the original castle, emphasized with Victorian furnishings from the wood-burning fireplace-centered drawing room to the combined taxidermied trophy-snooker room. I’m not sure if it’s because it was our first stop or every romantic detail about the property, but it holds a special place in my heart.
Scenery
Yes, the lochs and glens were impressive but the coastlines and port towns were just as alluring. While Isle of Skye was certainly on our radar, in our various iterations of planning, the northwest island was left off many times, simply due to scheduling. It wasn’t until we started working with Brendan Vacations that we were convinced that the extra travel and time in the car would be worth it—they were certainly correct.
Of course the mountains-meet-coast vistas on Isle of Skye were dramatic but also Portree is a colorful coastal town that adds juxtaposition to the backdrop of the impressionable nature. The rocky, stone beaches and moody ocean had a magical feel to it. I would have loved to stay a little longer to explore this island but I’m grateful we even got to see the slice of it that we did.
Another coastal town we loved: St Andrews. There, West Sands beach is nearly two miles long and there’s nothing like a windy walk on a beach to feel alive.
All this to say, if you’re considering a trip to Scotland but are strapped on time, I’d either wait until you can dedicate more time to this country or get comfortable with a trip that’s not necessarily a vacation but rather a journey that will certainly leave you tired but, after all, isn’t that what travel is all about?
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XO,