In the northeastern corner of France lies Alsace. Here, above Switzerland and sharing a border with Germany, is a mystifying region that has a proud identity of Alsatians yet an undeniably perplexing mix of French and German influence.
Upon visiting last week, a local quipped that the customs, work ethic and cuisine are German but the cooking technique and culture is unmistakably French. After spending six days there, I think I agree. The locals didn’t have much care for my poorly pronounced bonjours and si vous plaits (they primarily speak French) but the schedule was timely and wouldn’t appreciate tardiness. There was a plethora of meats, particularly charcuts, of which the region is famed for, but also cured sausage and various cuts of pork. In fact, on the first day when I asked for a light lunch, “maybe just a salad,” my guide informed me that Alsatians favored vegetable is pork.
As Alsace features the oldest wine route in the world, it’s celebrating 70 years in 2023, I was there to immerse in all things vin.
Primarily known for their production of unoaked, dry Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Crémant d’Alsace (sparkling wine), there is also plenty of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. They’re also known on the map with their Sylvaner and Muscat, though only making up about five and two percent of still wines, respectively. The AOC Grand Cru is about 3.5 percent of wine production and comprises predominately of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat d'Alsace.
It’s a brilliant destination for oenophiles but also nature enthusiasts and historians as some of the wineries date back to the 1500s and the vines surround the medieval villages that they’re located in. Everything is in reach at all times — whether you want to taste, learn or plop in a cafe and marvel at the medieval facades. So below, I gathered up some of my favorites from my time there — from must-visit wineries to can’t-miss dishes.
Before I dive into that, though, I want to clarify one thing. Riesling is phenomenal. Unfortunately, like some other wines that suffered from poor education and pop culture references (ehem Malbec and Sideways), this white variety is not given the credit it deserves. One producer shared, “when you think of white wine, you have to think of Alsace.”
Alsatian Riesling is crisp, clean and offers a lively minerality that can stand as an aperitif (without food) just as it can with light and fresh dishes that our society loves — salads, sushi, seafood. If you’re a fan of Sancerre or unoaked Chardonnay, you need to give Alsatian Riesling a chance. If you’re scared it’s going to be too sweet, you can keep an eye out for the new labels that will soon depict this scale from dry to sweet (working on an article about this so keep an eye out). Or trust that the majority of exported Alsatian Riesling is in dry style — exceptions include Vendanges Tardives (late harvest) and Sélection de Grains Nobles which you can bet will be sweet.
Now that’s all cleared up, here are the producers to seek out (with a couple simple notes about my favorite varieties from each to ensure I don’t get too technical) and how to plan your trip to Alsace.
Wineries:
Jean-Baptiste Adams - Cremant
Zinck - Cremant
Emile Beyer - 15th generation winemakers with ultra crisp Riesling and a short stroll from the center of the town of Eguisheim
Barmès Buecher - Pinot Noir from Grand Cru Hengst
Albert Mann - Pinot Noir from Grand Cru Hengst
Muré - Pinot Noir from Grand Cru Hengst
Albert Boxler - bone dry Riesling and delightfully aromatic Gewürztraminer in the town of Niedermorschwihr
Wolfberger - Riesling from Grand Cru Rangen
Schoffit - Riesling from Grand Cru Rangen
Schoech - Riesling from Grand Cru Rangen
Domaine Schlumberger - Riesling from Grand Cru Kitterlé
Dirlier Cadé - Riesling from Grand Cru Kitterlé
Domaine Schaal - negotiant with a gorgeous Pinot Noir
Hugel - one of the most widely recognized brands found in the U.S. with their yellow label, Classic Riesling and Pinot Gris
Gustave Lorentz - a range of Riesling and age-worthy Gewürztraminer (I tried a 1993!)
Marcel Deiss - experimenting with skin contact wines
Must visit villages include:
Eguisheim
Niedermorschwihr
Riquewihr
Guebwiller
Ribeauvillé
Kientzheim
Beblenheim
Eat
Tarte flambée - a thin crusted pizza of sorts with creme fraiche, bacon and onion. They offer different variations and some restaurants are solely dedicated to this delicacy. Caveau Saint-Pierre is one of them, just along the canal in Colmar.
Charcuterie (especially saucisson and Munster cheese, one of the three oldest cheeses in France)
Bouchées à la Reine - glorified chicken pot pie with mushrooms and cream
Escargot - snails in garlic and butter
Steak frites - try at l’Epicurien and stay for the impressive wine list
Onion tart - with a similar appearance to a quiche, this is a “light lunch” served with dijon-dressed salad.
Macarons - not the Ladurée kind you see in Paris but rather the old fashioned type that looks more like a small biscuit with a soft texture
Kougelhopf - it looks like a bundt cake with dried fruits baked into it
There are also 22 Michelin-starred restaurants in Alsace — l’Atelier du Peintre is a delight with the rest of them listed here.
Drink
Aside from wine, try a Lillet spritz at Cafe de la Lauch in Colmar or Pastis (an anise-flavored liqueur served with sparkling water to dilute it to your preference).
For beer, visit local breweries like Brasserie Bisaiguë and Perle Brewery.
Other things to note:
Storks nests are essentially part of the architecture here, teetering atop medieval buildings, but they are huge - and as locals warned, sometimes they fall over, so don’t forget to look up!
Most restaurants in the old villages close up between 2-7pm for their version of a siesta. Some local shops and businesses will do the same so plan your day and meals accordingly.
The sun is strong here! Alsace is the second driest region in France and given its mountainous locale the UV index is powerful — don’t forget sunscreen!
More specifics to come in future coverage but I’m only ever an email away for additional questions.
Some recent clips:
These Are the World’s Most Unique Hotel Jobs
How Michelin Guide Chefs are Making Magic with Lemons and Champagne
Not just for dessert: 6 things you probably didn't know about port wine