A Greek Dream Come True
A pocket guide for eating, shopping and drinking on Santorini & Mykonos
Last month after about two decades of yearning, I finally made it to Greece. I was a little nervous to finally set foot in this country having watched its islands succumb to over tourism (thanks social media and pop culture). Yet, I was still enamored with the Greek lifestyle I’d heard so much about; not to mention, the idea of fresh feta and spicy olive oil, lip-puckering Assyrtiko and white-washed facades marked by blue domes. I knew the third time was a charm and this was my chance to experience Greece.
My intrigue with Greece began in high school when my brother traveled to Athens and I felt left behind. As siblings about two years apart, we were always very close and I wasn’t so much jealous as I was curious about all he’d experience in this magical land so far from home; I wanted to hear all about it and I remember devouring his photos upon return. Post-college, I had a trip planned with my best friend — I had purchased my white, whimsical outfits and planned out an island-wide itinerary for both Santorini and Mykonos but the economy had other plans. When that fell through, it felt like I might never get there. Until, of course, I started travel writing professionally. It seemed like every one of my colleagues was in Greece every summer so I knew I’d have the chance, but when one finally came along, the pandemic swooped in and canceled my plans yet again. Finally, I touched down in Santorini this May with a renewed interest in the island — appreciating the opportunity before it even began.
I quickly discovered that May is a gorgeous time to visit. The Cycladic Islands are seasonal, open from May to the end of September. When I touched down, Santorini was still in the midst of reopening — the streets of Oia were actually navigable, some restaurants were still closed and there was a slight chill come nightfall. Watching the resort town come alive again was special.
The most special moment though came upon arrival to Katikies Santorini. One of the hotel staff members grabbed my suitcase, secured it over his shoulder and disappeared down the labyrinth of steps. I peered up and the views welcomed me with open arms.
The way the inky sapphire ocean contrasted the limestone edifices and misty blue horizon was more vibrant than any photo I’d ever seen of this familiar view. I realized I said this aloud and how it might sound silly, but it was truly everything I’d imagined and more. Not many places exist offline as they’re portrayed through our screens after intense editing and brightening; this was unadulterated, exquisite beauty.
Admittedly, I didn’t feel the same way about Mykonos. Perhaps, Santorini spoiled me with its dramatic volcanic vistas and waterside tavernas with octopus tentacles swinging in the winds, but the relatively flat island of Mykonos seemed less impressive to me. While many travelers stop by Mykonos for a couple days of wild partying, my favorite part of my short trip was a visit to Rizes Folklore Farm. In the middle of the island, the agrotourism concept attracts travelers for its raw landscape and bounty of seasonal produce they procure for a family-style courtyard lunch. The property became so popular that they recently added a few rooms for travelers looking to experience an extended farm-life stay.
Since I’ll be writing in-depth about my experience for a couple outlets, I wanted to share a few key details for you to bookmark for a future trip that will certainly prove more helpful than a personal essay.
Taste
Tarama: creamy dip of salted fish eggs (usually served with pita) and other more popular dishes like Tzatziki (salted yogurt and cucumber dip) and fava bean puree (more popular than chickpea hummus).
Horiatiki Salad: Greek’s don’t call their salad Greek but rather a “country” salad: feta, olives, bell peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, oil, vinegar and oregano are the traditional build.
Tiropita: cheese pie in phyllo pastry often served as an app or snack.
Barbounia: this local red mullet is typically lightly fried and served on a platter with simple vegetables like potato and broccoli. The fish are not as small as sardines so you need to carve out the bones but it makes for an interactive and casual lunch.
Sundried Octopus: one of the most simply prepared dishes, the octopus is left to dry in the sun (which makes it extra tender) before it’s drizzled with olive oil and charcoal-grilled.
Assyrtiko: Santorini’s native white wine that has a piercing acidity perfect for the bounty of seafood throughout the islands.
Espresso freddo: iced espresso that’s undoubtedly strong yet somehow refreshing under the powerful sun.
Mastiha: an herbal liqueur typically served after dinner as a digestif; the minty flavor is so unique it can be polarizing but worth a try.
Restaurants
Santorini
Amoudi Fish Tavern: no frills, waterfront dining that’s perfect for lunch or sunset.
Koukoumavlos: an elevated dining experience combining ingredients from land and sea overlooking the Aegean Sea.
Selene: one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants in an 18th-century Catholic Monastery. Book a pre-dinner tasting at their wine caves or simply arrive early for a peek before settling in.
Mykonos
Rizes Folklore Farmstead: a must for a leisurely, family-style lunch (usually tender meat cooked underground over charcoal) with fresh vegetables according to the season.
Baboulas Ouzeri: right on the water with fresh catch they show off at the table prior to ordering. Don’t be put-off by the photos on the menu, the owner walks around the tables to ensure utmost authenticity.
Nōema: the upscale taverna food in Chora with a 90-minute seating time may not be for everyone but for those looking to see all they can, the time limit allows you to dine then dance.
Katrin: a family-owned taverna for 50 years in a classical Mykonos setting.
Shops
Santorini
Sunbeam Handmade: cork bags and wallets
Stardust: accessories and clothing
The White Santorini: local fashion
Gold Street: flowy dresses
Faros Market: local products (wine, olive oil, olives)
Jewelry boutiques on Gold Street (Ypapantis Street)
Mykonos
Minas: established in NY but based in Greece, stunning statement jewelry
Salachas: Greek linens
Alis: boutique island style (flowy, patterned dresses and accessories)
Themis Z: ceramic tableware and silk blouses
Sadh Mykonos: luxury crochet goods from dresses to purses
Apocalypse Studio: hand painted wooden panels
The basics
Kalimera – hello (before noon)
Kalispera – hello (after 12pm)
Efcharistó – thank you
Parakaló – you’re welcome
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