Let's Talk About Sicily

It's all Italian to me... 

Last week I returned from Italy, Sicily to be exact. The Italian island refers to itself as "an entire continent in one state." From my short time there (five days alone isn't enough time to fully experience most destinations, yet alone this 'continent'), I quickly realized how this moniker came about.

Though I've never been to the Greek islands, the arid landscapes, punctuated by thriving vineyards and the Mediterranean sea, conjured this association. I was fascinated how the mountains peaked through the narrow streets of central Palermo, yet a 10-minute stroll east brought you to the deepest blue harbor. I was also shocked that every time I hopped on the bus, and drove for over an hour usually each time, I was still on the western side of Sicily. There's a whole other part to the region to explore, including the famed Etna, which I was told is about four and a half hours driving distance from the west to the east side without stopping. But in an area so diverse, who wouldn't make time for stops?

I want to talk about my travel experience a little, because it was my first trip to Europe since February 2020 and my first trip across the pond since my trip to Morocco last November. Although testing ensures a sense of safety, it also instilled travel anxiety as I had a whole transatlantic flight to think about the scenarios of Italian border control rejecting my test result, and on the flip, once I successfully entered the country, what if I were to contract it abroad and not be able to return to the U.S? I'm happy to report that none of this was realized. But as you begin to start traveling again, and start planning travel, I'm hoping some of this will ease any of similar thoughts to my travel frets (even as a seasoned traveler).

Pre-Flight...
Italy requires passengers to fill out this electronic passenger locator form, 24 to 48 hours before departure. 

As of October 5, 2021, Italy requires all vaccinated visitors to procure a negative Covid-19 test result (this can be PCR or rapid) no more than 72 hours before travel.

Upon Landing... 
I flew through Zurich so upon arrival, I was instructed to fill out a physical form that acts as a contract tracing method for all visitors to the country. It was collected by the flight attendants before deboarding.

As Switzerland and Italy are both part of the Schengen Zone, I completed border control in Zurich as part of my connecting itinerary. The agent asked for my vaccine card, my final destination and the purpose of my trip. It was all seamless because I had the appropriate materials ready to go. 

Once I landed in Palermo, there was no security, agent or control checking for the electronic form nor for my negative test result. I was surprised at this leniency. Although no one checked my paperwork, I can't confirm whether this was a one-off or whether the rest of Italy follows suit, so I still strongly recommend following the country's protocols outlined on their website to ensure that you don't run into a snag.

On the ground...
Upon check-in to the hotel, another journalist was asked for his paper and vaccine card, however, I was just asked for my passport. 

When joining a city tour, all museums, churches and places of interest required visitors to show their proof of vaccination, whether a physical copy, photo of the card, or a QR code generated from one of the apps developed to make travel easier in the age of Covid (more on that below).

Masks were required inside, especially at places of interest with high traffic. Outdoors, hardly anyone was wearing masks. 

I felt safe given the increase in the Delta variant, as travelers seemed to have more spatial awareness, manners and understanding for each other—we all want to enjoy the world again, and with this vested interest, we're doing our part to permit that, while learning to live in the shadow of the pandemic.

A helpful tip I wish I knew before travel...
Download the VeriFLY app to save you carrying around your vaccine card or digging for a photo of your vaccine card—most of Europe uses it.

Now onto the fun stuff...

To Eat:

As with the rest of Italy, Sicily's cuisine is regionally distinguishable. There is a grand use of eggplant and tomatoes, pine nuts (locals say it helps with digestion), pistachio, almond, and fish (given the proximity to the sea). My top three favorite dishes were:

Busiati — the pasta distinct to Sicily and perfectly cooked to al dente *every single time* served with Sicilian pesto alla Trapanese (cherry tomato, almonds, basil, garlic and olive oil)

Panelle a.k.a chickpea fritters — I was surprised by this offering of classic Sicilian street food; when I first tried it in Capo Market, I found it a little too greasy for my liking. But on the last night of the trip, I was told to eat it between a sliced piece of bread. I thought, carbs on carbs, yikes...but when in Italy. It was a scrumptious bite of salty, between earthy homemade bread that didn't make any sense but at that moment had me going back for seconds. Panelle is of Arabic origin, representing the Arabic influence on the region that dates back to the 8th century when there was an influx of Lebanese workers within the marble industry.

Pantesca salad — I enjoy a good salad, so when I didn't see a green leaf on my plate for three days, I was finally thrilled to see a salad on the menu. Upon delivery, however, the salad was incredibly not green, but rather a mix of potatoes, tomatoes, red onion and green olives all tossed in an olive oil and lemon—yet, it was remarkably fresh and somehow hit the spot of that palate-cleansing salad. I was later told that the majority of farmers are unable to grow enough lettuce because the Sicilian sun scorches it too easily.

Vineyards to Visit:
Sicily is most known for their Grillo and Nero D'Avola varieties, white and red, respectively. Grillo is a crisp, mineral-forward white wine that draws influence from the salinity of its coastal growing regions. Nero D'Avola expresses round and juicy red fruits on the palate, with traditionally light tannins; you can recognize their brush on the tongue, but they don't linger. Other native varieties include Perricone and Catarratto Bianco (white) as well as Nerello Cappuccio and Nerello Mascalese, however, these are more typical of Sicily's eastern side, Etna.

There were many tastings and vineyard visits, but here are my top three winery experiences to seek out:
 

Di Giovanna — Renowned as the pioneer of organic wines in Sicily DOC, this winery, run by two brothers, is a dreamy setting for an afternoon among the vines, followed by a personalized dinner overlooking the sweeping views of Sicilian countryside. Don't miss out on their homemade olive oil, a robustly spicy treat with focaccia. 

Funaro — You'll want to arrive in daylight at this vineyard; the views provide a remarkable backdrop for sunset and a glass of Grillo. There are intimate guest quarters attached to the winery for those seeking a more immersive experience in Sicilian wine country.

Cusumano — With a wine producer who's regionally referred to as the "James Bond of Sicily," Cusumano is simply unignorable. Their winery uses a constant flow of water to trap humidity and facilitate production, but isn't actually on a vineyard. The charming facade with a castle-style courtyard is alluring in its own right, though, and absolutely perfect for an in-depth tasting.

Best time of year to visit: 
As a southern island in the Med, Sicily's temperatures rarely dip below freezing, yet alone the upper 40s (degrees Fahrenheit). With that said, locals advised September as the best month to visit for wine-centric travels (you may get lucky and experience the tail end of harvest and the flurry of activity that brings with it) as well as May and June for balmy weather to enjoy the perks of the island (think beaches and hikes) before the summer highs. 

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Xo,
J