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Aug 28, 2019

To Zambia We Go...

It sounds cliche, but ever since I was a little girl I dreamed of taking a safari… a sentiment I realized was pretty common as I prepared for my first safari and heard the oohs and ahhs of taking this “dream trip” with The Bushcamp Company in Zambia.

Yet, oddly, as my departure date grew nearer and as I told more people about the trip, the more anxious I became to travel. I think some of this had to do with the small checklist I had as soon as I booked this trip in comparison to other trips I've booked on shorter notice. This included the long-put-off-task of ensuring my vaccinations were up to date as well as receiving a malaria pill prescription. All of this was enough to overshadow my excitement for the trip, but of course, not utterly deter me. So I took a deep dive into the internet to see how I could calm my loose nerves, and though I eventually left feeling confident and fully committed, it took a lot of time and energy researching as well as asking friends who had previously been on safaris to feel this way—so I wanted to ensure it was all in one place for you. And might I say, there are many variations of safari so, though, I want this to be an all encompassing guide, just realize that depending on the safari you take and the location of your lodge, some of the below may not apply.

So what was I worried about?

I think the thing I was most anxious about was being in a place susceptible to diseases I’d only read about. After visiting Passport Health—which is extremely helpful and efficient for any traveler looking for a quick vaccination—I wound up slightly more worried than I needed to be as they ran through the long list of possible illnesses present in Zambia (perhaps they were too efficient!). For this trip, it was strongly recommended that I receive the following vaccinations:

Hepatitis A
Hepatitis B
Typhoid
Cholera
Yellow Fever
Rabies
MMR
Tdap

Since I had previously received the majority of these, I only left with three shots in my arms; recommended boosters which I didn’t know I needed, so it was actually quite useful for the long run. I left with a yellow fever vaccination which saves me for future opportunities where the proof of vaccination is required to enter the country (like Uganda, Angola and the DRC). I also left the clinic with a malaria pill prescription, which again, isn’t required, just strongly recommended. I was exceptionally hesitant to take this due to the horror stories I heard from friends who had taken it but the alternative was malaria... so I leaned into the pills and was actually fine! I took Malarone, which apparently has the least severe side effects. The most common 'side effect' is vivid dreams or nightmares. Luckily, I didn’t have any nightmares, but I was told to take it in the morning which I think helped prevent this. One day I did take it in the afternoon prior to a yoga class and was extremely nauseous and dizzy, so I would recommend sticking to a morning routine, accompanied with food.

Another pre-trip anxiety occurred when I learned that I wouldn’t have WiFi on the trip. At first, panic ensued as I attempted to tie up all loose ends, notify contacts that I’d be offline for a week and throw an out of office on. But once that mad rush was all over, once I realized that no WiFi meant full attention and complete immersion into African wildlife, I was at peace with the idea. In fact, it didn’t take more than an hour for me to get used to the idea that not having to constantly grip onto my phone for dear life was actually liberating. I realized I do have an attention span; I can sit and watch an elephant eating for an hour and lose all track of time. I realized I don’t have to reply within 30 seconds to a text, call or email; I can reply on my own time. I realized how addicted I was to certain apps as I lay in bed scrolling through the day’s photos, then out of habit closed out and opened my email, “just to check once more before bed.” Talk about unhealthy… Zambia allowed me to recognize these ugly habits I’d accumulated over the years in less than three days without cell service or connection.

I wanted to be as transparent as possible with the way I felt in anticipation of this trip, which in hindsight, seem like silly issues, because I can imagine if I felt this way, others will too. And I want to assure you, all the worrying was worth it.

Highlights

The wildlife

Since this was my first safari, I was excited to see literally anything—the different bushes in South Luangwa National Park were interesting to me! But I was told Zambia is one of the best places for a beginner safari, and it certainly lived up to the hype. I was able to see all of the big five that the park offered—lions, leopards, elephants and buffalo. Unfortunately, the fifth, the rhino is no longer in Zambia. We also saw a plethora of hippos, giraffes, baboons, kudu, warthogs, impala, hyena and even the rare wild dogs.

The daily schedule

I didn’t realize safaris were so regimented when it came to eating, sleeping and safari-ing. Again, there are variations at every camp but the typical day looked like this:

5:30ish: Wake up knock (there are no clocks in the room and with no cell service, the camp guards would knock on your door to wake you up)

6:30am: Head out for a morning safari drive (or walk) since in Zambia, they offer walking safaris; the birthplace of this safari style

9:30am: Tea time in the midst of the bush

11am: Brunch back at camp

12:30pm: Siesta and downtime

3:30pm: Tea time round two: homemade cakes and pastries before heading out on an afternoon drive

4:30pm: Afternoon safari

6pm: Sundowners; the ultimate happy hour (more below)

7ish: In South Luangwa, you’re allowed to take night drives, so we usually spent another hour driving and spotting the nocturnal animals as they awoke; mongoose, leopards, hyenas.

8ish: Back to the camp for dinner then an early bed

Cuisine

Everyone made a big deal about not eating certain things while I was in Africa… I was told to avoid fruits, vegetables and anything that could potentially be washed in contaminated water as cholera is a big risk and something you can’t vaccinate against. I quickly threw all caution to the wind as soon as I arrived at the luxury lodge and accepted my first gin and tonic with big, fat, ice cubes! I think the owner saw the slight wave of concern cross my face and quickly added, “The water is completely purified here, ice, vegetables, everything will be more than okay to consume.” Rest assured, I wasn’t sick once and neither were my comrades. Also, worth noting, is that Zambia offers high quality beef products; we were treated to beef a few times during our stay, probably more than I would eat normally and I never regretted it. For breakfast, the porridge is simply the best way to fuel up for a safari. Most of the meals were set in advance but the camps are all equipped to accommodate dietary restrictions.

G&Ts are a ritual

Whether or not you like gin, I am 90% sure a G&T will become your drink of choice on a safari. I am not a gin drinker, but there was something about drinking one that quickly leads to another as a sundowner. Refreshing, crisp, and the tonic keeps the mosquitos away. I wasn’t the only one who felt my taste buds change to welcome the G&T as a cocktail of choice, so I’m making a theory out of it!

Attire

On a bush safari, it’s best to blend in with the natural colors so add these colors to your wardrobe: dark tan, khaki, coffee and army green. You’ll know you’re on the right plane when you realize everyone on the plane is dressed in khaki.

Colors to avoid are black and dark navy (these colors attract the tsetse flies which have an unforgiving bite), white or bright colors (which attracts animals). It’s best to stick with the camo colors mentioned. Yes, this also means for shoes.

Wearing sneakers with high socks or hiking boots keep ticks or thorns off your ankles. And wearing longer clothing, albeit hot, is best in the evening to discourage mosquitos.

Lastly, I was told to wash my clothes in mosquito repellent but I never did this… I think it depends how severe the mosquitos are, but I found it unnecessary. All the camps carry mosquito repellent, the beds are draped in mosquito nets and candles, fires, and natural forms of repellent are used. I will say, even though you may not think you see mosquitos around, still use the bug spray at all times—I had a few pesky bites that lingered and though were cleared for illness, were still uncomfortable.

Miscellaneous items

I brought binoculars but didn’t end up using them as much as I did my 500mm camera lens. It was just as useful to see the wildlife up close, and even better to hit record to watch the animals while also turn it into an everlasting memory. Check with your safari camp if they provide binoculars before buying a pair, or if you are planning on bringing camera gear, save space in your luggage and skip them.

Many domestic flights have limited room for baggage, so pack light. Most of the camps offer laundry services so you can re-wear outfits without the feeling of putting on dirty clothes. Also, packing a soft-sided bag is a preference for many airlines—it’s also just easier to lug around between camps if you do move around.

As of recent, the majority of African camps, especially The Bushcamp Company, have an emphasis on decreasing their waste production, so bringing a reusable bottle is key—especially as the water provided in the rooms and throughout the camps is filtered so you can refill at your own convenience.

Lots of the camps are screened tents, so it’s much more of an indoor-outdoor experience; I guess kind of like glamping. There will be bugs and small critters but really nothing to fret about, just better to know upfront.