Let's Talk About Porto and Provence
Sunnier days....
It’s that time of year, again… dreaded Daylight Savings is here and all of a sudden it’s dark at 4:30 p.m., and about that same time we pull up Google Flights to scour any deal that will get us to warmer, brighter days ASAP.
For me, sunnier days are in my distant rearview, having started my autumn exploring Porto, Portugal and Provence, France (the latter of which has 300 sunny days a year) so I’m dedicating this issue to these not long past destinations, in hopes to bring some virtual sunshine your way.
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Porto
This was my second time to Portugal’s second largest city and gosh, was I so excited to get back here. During my first trip, I remember being immediately enamored by two things: the jagged topography of terracotta-roofs seemingly stacked atop of each other, growing out from all angles and vinho verde. The latter directly translates to green wine, but the slightly effervescent, citrus-forward wine is a white blend—usually made from grapes like Alvarinho, Arinto, Azal, Avesso, Loureiro, and Trajadura—produced in its eponymous DOC in northern Portugal (just like Champagne is produced in Champagne, France, ‘green wine’ is produced in Vinho Verde). All this to say, I was a starry eyed, 20-year-old who didn’t even realize that I should be tasting port while I was in the namesake region (though to my credit, I did book a half-day tasting trip to the Douro Valley; I just don’t think I actually knew what port was back then).
Luckily, on my return trip in September, I was there to hone in on the fortified wine that’s still sold out of the warehouses of Vila Nova de Gaia, the banks opposite of Porto, separated by the Douro River. It’s on this side where the luxury wine hotel, The Yeatman, also set up shop in 2011 and brought a wave of new tourism to the region. A stay here is a no-brainer with an unparalleled view across the river, complimentary canned Port & Tonics lining the poolside, and within steps of the city’s newest attraction, WOW, a cultural center dedicated to the World of Wine. Not to mention, though the hotel is an oasis in a bustling city, it’s easy to hop on the highway to make a run for the hills, more specifically the rolling hills of the Douro Valley, where you can drink port—and most importantly learn about port—from the source.
Things to do:
⟡ Get lost in the old world streets of Porto, stringing together pintxos bars (Porto’s version of small plates like tapas) to guide you.
⟡ Take a cable car to the top of the bridge–it may feel touristy but there’s a reason the soaring gondolas were built and that’s for 360-degree views of this puzzle-like city. If taking in views from solid ground is more your style, you can always walk to the bridge to take in the vista from a harrowing crossing over the Douro.
⟡ Spend an afternoon, or realistically a day, exploring the World of Wine, from the cork museum to the rosé experience, there is no shortage of entertainment. If you’re really invested in learning more about this wine region, you can also enroll in a class at their onsite wine school.
⟡ Visit iconic port houses for a peek into what storing port used to look like. Spoiler alert: though the majority of barrels used to be shipped down the river from the Upper Douro by boat and stored here, there are less barrels aging in the warehouses today as storage facilities were built onsite at each of the wineries up-river.
⟡ Don’t be 20-year-old me and rely on a day trip to the Douro—really immerse yourself into the landscape with an overnight stay (or more); not only is the port-house hopping more enjoyable when you’re not rushing around, but when you stop to bask in the nature of the Douro, you’re sure to appreciate the UNESCO World Heritage-landscape in all its glory. Stay at The Vintage House for a luxe getaway.
Things to eat:
⟡ Cured regional meats and local cheeses–a common pintxos sampler.
⟡ Sardines and tinned fish–get over the fishiness and eat like a local.
⟡ Codfish-anything (aka Bacalhau)–it’s on practically every menu in every form you could think of. If you’re a traditionalist, try a simple grilled filet at T&C restaurant to savor the freshness of the cod likely caught earlier that day.
⟡ Francesinha–a sandwich of roasted meat, including smoked sausage topped with gooey cheese and a fried egg (it’s known as the local hangover cure but is an indulgent bite any time of day).
⟡ Pastel de nata–egg custard with cinnamon usually served in individual portions at bakeries.
Things to drink:
⟡ Port in all its forms (ruby, tawny, white and rosé) + aged tawny, late bottle vintage (LBV), and vintage. Try port and tonic for your new favorite aperitif or Siroco on the rocks (white port with an orange slice over ice). **Psst, if you're reading this and all of a sudden craving a beverage, the Taylor Fladgate cans are available stateside and are sure to emulate sunshine even in the darkest depths of winter.
⟡ Vinho Verde–the slightly effervescent wine that charmed me the first time, did it all over again the second time, and once you try it, you’ll understand why. It’s a perfect sipper under the Porto sun and paired with all the seafood on deck.
⟡ Table wine–In addition to Vinho Verde, Porto’s table wine (aka wine that’s not fortified for port) has increased in quality in recent years. A few notable producers to look out for are Crasto Superior, Lavradores de Feitoria, Ameal and Quinta Vale Do Bragão.
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Best time to visit:
The weather is in a routinely sunny state between the end of April and beginning of October (average about 70 degrees F), though summer tourist swells may make the narrow streets less enjoyable. Opt for the beginning of May and mid-to-end of September for lingering warm weather but dwindling crowds.
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Next stop... 5 Things to do in Provence:
Boarding a redeye in the pouring rain knowing that you’ll wake up somewhere sunny ranks high in comforting feelings–and that’s exactly what happened ahead of my journey to Provence. Southern France’s countryside conjures images of sipping rosé over leisurely lunches that bleed into aperitivo hour, which is pretty much what I did for four days but throw in some Pétanque and lavender-infused bubble baths for variety. I stayed at Chateau La Coste, ideally located only 40 minutes from Marseille airport, whereas many Provencal estates are upwards of two hours away. The 600-acre estate is compartmentalized into a 28-villa resort, working vineyard, sculpture park, wellness getaway, sustainable gardens and multi-restaurant village that exceeds a humble home for multi-day stay.
Though I’ve been to many resorts where I don’t leave the property for days and feel somewhat trapped (often saying, “I need to get off campus for a sense of place”), Chateau La Coste was not one of these stays. The property embodied a sense of place and simultaneously provided a backdrop to experience what the Provencal lifestyle entails; slow living, punctuated by leisurely lunches with endless rosé. Aside from this, here are five other things to do, see, eat and drink while visiting the region.
Enjoy an art safari at Chateau La Coste. You can hop in a golf cart or tie up your laces and work that step count to tour the art and sculptures rising from Chateau La Coste’s sprawling land. With 40 works of art all commissioned by owner Paddy McKillen uniquely for the property, the collection is rare, mystifying and truly admirable.
Shop and sip in Lourmarin. Out of all my European travels thus far, this charming, French town has to be among my favorites with its weekly open-air market (Fridays) ushering you along its cobbled streets, until you’re taking turns that lead you to hidden boutiques housed in old caves that used to hide bandits and now share walls with cozy terraces serving 11 a.m. spritzes with over-salted peanuts. La Colline was my favorite selling French linens and vintage finds (6 Rue Henri de Savornin, 84160 Lourmarin, France).
Visit Aix-en-Provence. The former capital of Provence is certainly on the top of most tourist's to-dos but to see it as a local, go into a visit with no agenda. Whether you're staying in an Airbnb downtown or only have a day to spare, bring a canvas tote (or a much more chic and local way, a straw basket) to hold all the goodies you pick-up at the open markets, from sausage, olives and a baguette to lavendar and fresh bouquets. Then make time for a picnic in one of the old-world squares to absorb the beauty of this town at your own pace.
Eat Madelines (the tantalizing smell wafts out of Madeleines De Christophe in the heart of Aix), fresh goat cheese sprinkled with herbs and edible flowers (marigold and quince). Don't forget about the onion tart at Chateau La Coste, mouthwatering layers of caramelized onions between flaky crust that sounds overwhelming but simply melts in your mouth (think a hardened version of French onion soup for taste match).
Drink rosé. Ok, I had to emphasize this because, truthfully, I had a bit of rosé fatigue after consecutive summers of #roséallday but my appreciation for rosé was reignited in Provence as it truly tastes better in its home terroir. I feel like I bottled that state and brought it back with me so now, when I pour myself a glass of rosé stateside, I know the nostalgia will take me back to sunshine in the heart of Provence.
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Xo,
J